Homeowners, renters, and property managers call us saying, “The faucet keeps dripping,” “the handle is loose,” or “hardly any water comes out.” Those everyday descriptions can point to a worn cartridge, clogged aerator, damaged washer, or failing valve stem.
We repair kitchen, bathroom, utility-room, and outdoor faucets across Cedar Park, Anderson Mill, Brushy Creek, and Jollyville. We check the fixture, handle, spout, supply tubes, and shutoff valves before choosing a repair.
We treat a spout that drips but shuts off cleanly as work that can usually wait for a scheduled repair. Water under the sink or a faucet that will not shut off should not wait, because the supply connection or cartridge can keep feeding a cabinet leak.
Dripping faucet and weak flow
We see faucets that keep dripping after the handle is off because a cartridge, stem, seat, or washer no longer seals. A puddle at the handle base can instead come from an O-ring or packing seal.
We trace “low water pressure” at one sink to a blocked aerator, debris in the supply stop, or a restricted cartridge. A handle that turns without changing the water, binds, or wobbles has a different fault in the handle screw, adapter, stem, or cartridge.
These symptoms can look alike at the counter, but they involve separate parts and separate repair costs. We inspect the fixture before assigning the work.
Fixture inspection and cartridge test
During a fixture inspection, we open the hot and cold sides, check handle travel, and inspect the aerator, spout base, supply tubes, and stop valves. We compare flow from each side and check for leakage at the cartridge and connections.
A basic inspection commonly takes 20 to 30 minutes. Household water pressure is generally kept between 40 and 80 psi; pressure outside that range can affect a faucet, but one weak fixture often has a local blockage.
We can usually replace a standard cartridge, washer, O-ring, aerator, or supply tube on the same visit if the matching part is available. A discontinued cartridge, specialty finish, concealed valve body, or pipe change may need an ordered part or a return visit.
Cartridge age, shutoffs, and access
We consider the fitting’s age because older cartridges and stems may not match current replacements. A recognizable make and an available cartridge keep the repair focused on the fixture, while an obsolete valve body can change the scope.
We also account for access under the sink. A corroded or seized shutoff valve may need attention before we can isolate water safely, and a crowded cabinet or pedestal base adds removal time.
We account for a finish-matched handle, ceramic cartridge, or manufacturer-specific part that must be ordered. If repair extends into supply piping or work at a managed property needs approval, we consider the required sign-off before work proceeds.
Model number and faucet location
Before calling, check the faucet make and model number on the box, receipt, installation sheet, or manufacturer paperwork if you still have it.
Tell us which room has the fixture and whether it is a kitchen sink, bathroom sink, tub, shower, utility sink, or outdoor spigot.
Describe whether water is dripping from the spout, coming from the handle, or running into the cabinet now.
A photo of the faucet and the space below the sink helps us identify cartridge style and see the shutoff access.
Note the fitting’s approximate age and any prior handle or cartridge replacement.
Call Cedar Park Plumbing Company at (512) 986-2512 if water is reaching the cabinet; a wet cabinet base and supply connections can worsen while the faucet waits.
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